Analisis material toe puff terhadap kualitas lasting pada desain sepatu kulit handmade

Authors

  • Noor Rachman Maulana Politeknik ATK Yogyakarta Author
  • Vertasius Sanjaya Nugraha Author
  • Sulistianto Politeknik ATK Yogyakarta Author
  • Ulfah Nafi'ah Politeknik ATK Yogyakarta Author
  • Achmad Basri Politeknik ATK Yogyakarta Author
  • Grace Febriartha Manullang Politeknik ATK Yogyakarta Author

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.30998/jd.v13i1.60

Keywords:

Desain Sepatu, Kulit, Lasting, Toe Puff

Abstract

Toe puff memiliki peran penting dalam menentukan kualitas akhir sepatu, terutama dari segi kerapian, kekencangan, dan kesesuaian bentuk ujung depan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk menganalisis pengaruh variasi ketebalan toe puff terhadap kualitas hasil lasting sepatu kulit yang dikerjakan secara manual. Metode penelitian yang digunakan penelitian kualitatif dengan teknik eksperimen menggunakan tiga variasi ketebalan toe puff berbahan cemisit, yaitu bahan yang umum digunakan dalam produksi sepatu kulit. Proses lasting dilakukan secara manual menggunakan tang oleh tenaga kerja terampil. Upper sepatu yang digunakan berbahan kulit sapi tersamak krom. Penilaian dilakukan secara kualitatif melalui observasi visual dan dokumentasi terhadap proses penarikan upper, kestabilan bentuk, serta tingkat kerapian hasil akhir. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa ketebalan toe puff memberikan dampak pada hasil lasting yang berbeda-beda, semakin tebal toe puff, semakin tinggi kestabilan bentuk ujung sepatu yang dihasilkan. Namun, toe puff yang terlalu tebal menyebabkan kesulitan dalam proses penarikan upper dan permukaan kulit bagian tepi shoelast rentan bergelombang, sehingga menurunkan tingkat kerapian akhir. Penelitian ini menegaskan pentingnya pemilihan ketebalan material toe puff yang tepat untuk mencapai keseimbangan antara struktur dan estetika dalam proses desain dan produksi sepatu kulit handmade.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Afrinda, A. F., Mahardika, B., Rianingrum, C. J., Doli, D., Aryani, D. I., Ramadhan, D., Hasdiana, Adriati, I., Theodora, J., Wawointana, M. V., Christian, M., Hartanti, M., Ramadhan, M. S., Santoso, R. E., Purnama, R. F., Hadiwijoyo, R. S., Septyana, R., Lazuardi, R. A., Alya, S. H., … Kharisma, V. (2020). Penciptaan Kreasi Seni Rupa dan Desain (1st ed.). ZAHIR Publishing. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/368494160

Aji, A. Y. R. (2022). Shoe Lasting with Manual Techniques. Corak: Jurnal Seni Kriya, 11(1), 93–100. https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9415-876X

Anderson, J., Williams, A. E., & Nester, C. (2017). An explorative qualitative study to determine the footwear needs of workers in standing environments. Journal of Foot and Ankle Research, 10(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13047-017-0223-4

Chuenyindee, T., Torres, R. B., Prasetyo, Y. T., Nadlifatin, R., & Persada, S. F. (2022). Determining Factors Affecting Perceived Quality among Shoe Manufacturing Workers towards Shoe Quality: A Structural Equation Modeling Approach. Journal of Open Innovation: Technology, Market, and Complexity, 8(2). https://doi.org/10.3390/joitmc8020082

Delwar Hossain, M., Ahammed Bin Azam, F., Chowdhury, M., Delwar HOSSAIN, M., & Ahammed Bin AZAM, F. (2020). Quality Assessment of Shoe Leather Based on the Properti es of Strength and Comfort, Collected from Diff erent Footwear and Leather Industries in Bangladesh Quality Assessment of Shoe Leather Based on the Properties of Strength and Comfort, Collected from Different Footwear and Leather Industries in Bangladesh. Online) Journal Homepage: Www.Textile-Leather.Com Journal, 2623–6281. https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR

Gupta, J., Kumar Pandey, R., & Sharma, N. K. (2024). Manufacturing Processes in the Footwear Industry: A Study of Mechanized Cement Lasting Process. International Journal for Multidisciplinary Research (IJFMR), 6(1), 1–9. www.ijfmr.com

Hall, N., Parker, D., & Williams, A. (2020). An exploratory qualitative study of health professional perspectives on clinical outcomes in UK orthotic practice. Journal of Foot and Ankle Research, 13(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13047-020-00416-w

Kaziur, P., Mikołajczyk, Z., Kłonowska, M., & Woźniak, B. (2022). Design Methodology and Technology of Textile Footwear. Materials, 15(16). https://doi.org/10.3390/ma15165720

Kim, B., Seul, A., Mihai, A., Costea, M., Bodoga, A., & Curteza, A. (2023). The Influence of Materials on Footwear Behaviour: A Finite Element Simulation Study. https://doi.org/10.3390/cma16227203

Luximon, A. (2013). Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture (C. Freear, Ed.; Vol. 141). Woodhead Publishing. www.woodheadpublishing.com.

Ma, R., Lam, W. K., Ding, R., Yang, F., & Qu, F. (2022). Effects of Shoe Midfoot Bending Stiffness on Multi-Segment Foot Kinematics and Ground Reaction Force during Heel-Toe Running. Bioengineering, 9(10). https://doi.org/10.3390/bioengineering9100520

Ma, Y., Xue, Y., Jang, K. I., Feng, X., Rogers, J. A., & Huang, Y. (2016). Wrinkling of a stif thin film bonded to a pre-strained, compliant substrate with finite thickness. Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 472(2192). https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2016.0339

Mesa, J. W., Onyancha, D. O., & Magut, P. K. S. (2020). Assessment of the Quality of Leather Footwear for School Children made by SMEs in Assessment of the Quality of Leather Footwear for School Children Made by SMEs in Kariokor Kenya. Ethiopian E-Journal for Research and Foresight (Ee-JRIF), 12(1), 2020.

Mesa, J. W., Onyancha, D. O., & Sang Magut, P. K. (2019). Assessment of the Quality of Leather Footwear for School Children made by SMEs in Kariokor Kenya. International Journal of Scientific and Research Publications (IJSRP), 9(7), p91118. https://doi.org/10.29322/ijsrp.9.07.2019.p91118

Mihai, A., Seul, A., Curteza, A., & Costea, M. (2022). Mechanical Parameters of Leather in Relation to Technological Processing of the Footwear Uppers. Materials, 15(15). https://doi.org/10.3390/ma15155107

Monteiro, M., Rosa, Á., Martins, A., & Jayantilal, S. (2023). Grounded Theory—An Illustrative Application in the Portuguese Footwear Industry. Administrative Sciences, 13(2). https://doi.org/10.3390/admsci13020059

Price, C., Skidmore, S., Ratcliffe, J., & Williams, A. (2021). Children should be seen and also heard: an explorative qualitative study into the influences on children’s choice of footwear, their perception of comfort and the language they use to describe footwear experiences. Journal of Foot and Ankle Research, 14(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13047-021-00487-3

Reddy, S., Sunil, Y., & Reddy, M. (2021). Study on Application of Six Sigma in Shoe Manufacturing Industry. International Journal of Research in Engineering and Science (IJRES) ISSN, 9(4), 15–23. www.ijres.org

Sufian, Md. A., Rahaman, Md. Z., Ahmed, F., & Dewan, H. A. (2023). Analysis of Rejection Data in the Lasting Section of the Footwear Industry. Australian Journal of Engineering and Innovative Technology, 35–57. https://doi.org/10.34104/ajeit.023.035057

Wang, T., Yang, Y., & Xu, F. (2022). Mechanics of tension-induced film wrinkling and restabilization: A review. Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 478(2263). https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2022.0149

Wrześniowska, K. (2023). Shoe Last Customization: A Systematic Review. International Journal of Engineering and Technology Innovation, 13(3), 230–250. https://doi.org/10.46604/ijeti.2023.11348

Zhu, C., Song, Y., Xu, Y., Zhu, A., Baker, J. S., Liu, W., & Gu, Y. (2024). Toe Box Shape of Running Shoes Affects In-Shoe Foot Displacement and Deformation: A Randomized Crossover Study. Bioengineering, 11(5). https://doi.org/10.3390/bioengineering11050457

Downloads

Published

11/16/2025

How to Cite

Maulana, N. R., Nugraha, V. S., Sulistianto, Nafi'ah, U., Basri, A., & Manullang, G. F. (2025). Analisis material toe puff terhadap kualitas lasting pada desain sepatu kulit handmade. Jurnal Desain, 13(1), 354-366. https://doi.org/10.30998/jd.v13i1.60