Transformasi simbolik burung enggang dalam perancangan busana kontemporer berbasis cerita rakyat Kalimantan
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.30998/jd.v13i4.3591Keywords:
burung enggang, desain berbasis praktik, konstruksi busana, semiotika Peirce, desain strukturalAbstract
Pemanfaatan cerita rakyat Nusantara dalam industri mode kontemporer masih umum diterapkan sebatas motif dekoratif pada permukaan kain sehingga potensi nilai filosofisnya belum tergali optimal. Penelitian ini bertujuan merumuskan strategi transformasi visual mitologi burung enggang dari cerita rakyat Dayak Kalimantan ke dalam busana siap pakai (ready-to-wear) wanita. Pendekatan yang digunakan adalah perancangan berbasis praktik (practice-based design) yang dipadukan dengan analisis semiotika triadik Charles Sanders Peirce, dengan eksperimentasi studio sebagai instrumen utama untuk menghasilkan data teknis dan purwarupa busana. Purwarupa yang dihasilkan divalidasi oleh satu ahli materi pada tahap konsep dan dua ahli praktisi mode pada tahap produk. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa karakter fisik dan nilai filosofis burung enggang dapat didekonstruksi menjadi elemen desain struktural (structural design) berupa potongan asimetris, kerah runcing (pointed collar), lengan raglan balon, serta tekstur mikro melalui manipulasi kain bertingkat (ruffles) berbahan organza dan bordir manual terarah. Evaluasi ahli terhadap kedua purwarupa menghasilkan rata-rata skor 3,87 dari skala 4,00, yang menempatkan kedua rancangan pada kategori Sangat Layak dari sisi konstruksi, kenyamanan, keandalan struktur, dan estetika. Secara teoretis, penelitian ini berkontribusi memperkaya metodologi penciptaan mode nasional berbasis cerita rakyat secara praktis, hasil eksperimen studio ini menjadi referensi konkret bagi desainer dan industri mode dalam mengangkat warisan budaya lokal secara etis dan bernilai jual.
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